Astigarraga, what to see and what to do.

Astigarraga, mecca of the Basque cider, offers us to spend a nice family day around the apple culture in the Basque Country.

Astigarraga, a small town located just 10 minutes drive from the center of Donostia San Sebastian, capital of the historical territory of Gipuzkoa, has positioned itself in recent years in the spotlight of the international scene. And it is not for less, this small town of Gipuzkoa, has been named on its own merits as the capital of cider (sagardoa in Basque) of Euskadi. A town, which besides being an annual meeting point for lovers of this traditional drink of Euskal Herria, has also become the preferred gastronomic destination among many of the people who visit us.

Located less than 5 km from Donostia San Sebastian, Astigarraga has a good representation of apple orchards, not as many as we would like and not as many as to satisfy the demand, but we are working hard on it. Moreover, thanks to the new designation of origin, Euskal Sagardoa, a seal that guarantees the quality of our cider, we can say that we are facing a new era, a stage in which the apple tree is once again gaining prominence, a moment in which cider is in full expansion. All this, is translated in a massive attendance to the sagardotegis of the territory of the cider in the Basque Country (Astigarraga, Hernani and Usurbil), a unique experience, in which besides enjoying a good menu of sagardotegi with cider to the txotx (directly of the kupela), also we can know all the secrets of the Basque cider by means of the visit to the museum of the cider, Sagardoetxea.

Bathed by the Urumea river, the river that joins Astigarraga with Donostia San Sebastian, the river of the cider, this urban center has always had a great importance in the rural, economic and industrial development of the province of Gipuzkoa, a fact, which is argued by the history of the Basque people and that is reproduced during the celebration of the Sagardo Apurua with the landing of several barrels of cider at the height of Tabakalera. But, Astigarraga, known for having the largest number of sagardotegis (cider houses in Basque) per square meter, hides many secrets behind the apple trees and cider, not everything is apple in the territory of cider.

At the moment, in our opinion, the town of Astigarraga is being undervalued, wasted. There are many people who, attracted by the gastronomic pleasures of the sagardotegis of this environment, travel to Astigarraga, where, instead of enjoying all its charms, they only make a couple of rounds in the bars before entering the chosen sagardotegi. Astigarraga is not only a village where you can find 5 bars where you can have a drink and as many cider bars where you can eat and drink cider. The culture and history of this town deserves to be recognized, deserves to be lived. That is why, throughout this article we are going to try to unravel all the secrets and places that this impressive Basque town keeps inside. Come on!

Astigarraga is a town of about 12 km² located in the north of Gipuzkoa, on the right bank of the Urumea River, between the mountains Txoritokieta and Santiagomendi. A municipality, which is surrounded by its neighbors of Donostia-San Sebastian, Errenteria and Hernani.

The “astigartarras” welcome us to this urban center in which the culture of the apple represents a good part of their way of being. An urban nucleus, in which taking as reference the roots of our culture and history they have known how to build beautiful experiences so that the traveler knows in first person everything related to this town of Gipuzkoa.

History: The town of Astigarraga is divided into two areas or spaces. On the one hand, the surroundings of the Urumea river, in the urban center, in the lower part, in the old lands of the lords of Murguia, and on the other hand, the upper part, in the Santiagomendi mountain, the neighborhood of Santiago, where the baserris (farmhouses in Basque) are very important. And it is that, although nowadays the Palace of Murgia and the church of Santa Maria de Murgia are a couple of spaces more to visit in Astigarraga’s lands, what many people do not know, is that for a long time Astigarraga and the dominion of Murgia maintained a relation of annexation desanexión. A situation similar to the one lived in 1941 with Donostia San Sebastian, and it was in this year when Astigarraga was incorporated into the capital of Gipuzkoa as another neighborhood. Finally, in 1987, Astigarraga recovered its pre-1941 status, that of today, that of an independent municipality.

Territory of the cider: Although the production and consumption of cider is extended throughout practically all our territory, throughout the Basque Country, this broth and everything that surrounds it gains great prominence in the so-called territory of the cider (sagardoaren lurraldea in Basque), a territory formed by the towns of Astigarraga, Hernani and Usurbil.

For all those people who have their first contact with Basque cider, we must say that it is nothing new, this broth and its production have contributed in a very important way to our culture and history for centuries. An example of this is the number of liters of cider that Basque sailors drank during their voyage to Newfoundland or the origin of our beloved Txalaparta, a musical percussion instrument that has its origin in the pressing of apples.

By the way, the original apple broth, its juice, is another of the attractions of this land. It is very good. You have to try it.

Urumea: The river of cider. The Urumea river has served for centuries as a means of transport between the capital of Gipuzkoa and the cider territory. A fluvial road, along which all the products that were elaborated in the towns near the capital of Gipuzkoa were transported. In this sense, the most important product in these trips was none other than our beloved cider. Kupelas and more cider kupelas. A tradition, that is reproduced in Sagardo Apurua with the transport of barrels by the Urumea river until its disembarkation in Donostia San Sebastian and its later tasting by the streets of the same one. A cultural and historical festival.

Murgia Park: On a hill known as Markesmendi, we find the Palace of Murgia and the church of Santa Maria (XIII century), 2 spaces of historical and architectural interest that surround a large park of the same name. The palace was the residence of the lords of Murgia for many years, a fortress in medieval times, an impressive construction that gives us clues about the power that this family has had throughout history. The relationship between the lords of Murgia and the people of Astigarraga was for years based on a relationship of agreements that can be summarized perfectly with the following statement: the people worked and paid taxes in exchange for protection, justice and free access to the toll of the Ergobia pass. Currently, thanks to an agreement between the Astigarraga town council and the Murgia family, the park has become public property. At present, both the palace and the church are still owned by the Murgia family, a fact that does not mean that guided tours of the interior are not possible.

City Hall: The City Hall or Town Hall of Astigarraga was built in the early eighteenth century, an imposing building, which we highlight its elegance, its 2 balconies, the municipal coat of arms, the clock that serves as the highest point of the structure and the small improvised pediment that keeps in its first floor portified with 5 arches.

Sagardoetxea: As we presented in previous articles the Txakolingunea of Bakio, the museum of the txakoli, in Astigarraga we find Sagardoetxea, “sagardoaren etxea”, the house of the cider in Castilian. A museum that we recommend you to visit to understand perfectly the history, elaboration and everything that surrounds the cider of our territory. Do not miss our article of Sagardoetxea.

Sagardotegiak: The Basque cider houses, the sagardotegis, are one of the best establishments to enjoy a good mix of history, culture and Basque gastronomy in Astigarraga. For our part, we have visited many of them but among all we recommend a visit to the following:

Camino de Santiago: The apostle Santiago is of great importance in Astigarraga, as evidenced by the mountain and neighborhood that bear his name. It is said that the name of these two elements is due to the amount of fossils found in the area, known as “Belemnites” (shaped like a cane) and Pecten Aequivalvis (pilgrims shell), 2 fossils, which helped to spread the popular belief that the apostle Santiago passed through these lands. curious right? In the neighborhood of Santiago, in the Santiagomendi mount (Santiago mount in Basque) there is a hermitage dedicated to the apostle Santiago. And it is in this same place, practically without moving, where we find 3 attractions of Astigarraga:

Txotx: Every year, takes place in Astigarraga one of the most important events of the year, and is that, the Wednesday before the day of San Sebastian (January 20), opens the cider season in Euskal Herria with the ritual of Txotx. An event, by means of which the cider producers give us to taste the new cider of the year with the cry of Txotx! From the kupela to the glass, from the glass to the inside.

Apples: This fruit has lived among us since ancient times, leaving a great mark in our culture and history. Although its quantity and quality has varied over the years, it is currently in great health, with a great future. All this is the result of the great effort made by the producers and the great work done by the associations and the Euskal Sagardoa Denomination of Origin. When talking about the history of apples in the Basque Country, it is impossible not to talk about industrialization in our territory, a historical fact that had a negative effect on the field.

Sagardobus: If you are staying near Bilbao, Vitoria-Gasteiz or Pamplona, a great option to know Astigarraga and enjoy the cider houses that surround this urban center, is called Sagardobus. A company, which manages buses and cider houses through its online platform and represents a great option to avoid having to use private transport or having to charter a bus ourselves. A 100% recommended service.

Experiences: The cider houses, associations and museums that we find in the area of Astigarraga have a nice program of guided tours, tastings and many other experiences that show us much of the culture and history of this town. For more information we recommend asking at Sagardoetxea itself.

Others: In Astigarraga we also find other points of interest such as the Fort of Txoritokieta or the Bridge of Ergobia. The first of these, the Fort of Txoritokieta, a military building located on the mountain of the same name, on the geographical boundary with Errenteria, represents one of the many defensive points built with the sole purpose of shielding the border. Although it is not in the same state as Fort San Marcos, it is certainly worth a visit. On the other hand, the Ergobia Bridge, in charge of joining the Royal Road between Castile and France, is a beautiful architectural work of three arches built in the eighteenth century, the first stone bridge built over the river Urumea. As a final point, we can visit the fronton of the village, the fronton Txomiñenea, a mandatory space in any self-respecting Basque village.

Igartubeiti and Albaola Museum: Although they do not belong to the municipality of Astigarraga, the Igartubeiti and Albaola Museums play a very important role for all those people who want to contextualize and deepen in the history of the Basque cider.

Kirikoketa festa: Thanks to the merger of the Igartubeiti Museum (former baserri tolarea) and the Jo ala Jo taldea Cultural Association, it is now possible to enjoy a beautiful day of cider making as it was done in the sixteenth century. A very special event that we recommend to all kind of travelers to enjoy. We recommend you to read the article, Kirikoketa besta, the celebration of the Basque culture.

Galarreta Jai Alai: Although this emblematic fronton is located in the neighboring town of Hernani, it is still an attraction to take into account near Astigarraga, a perfect complement to any plan you make in this area. Galarreta is one of the most important temples of remonte, a very fast and intense form of pelota.

Hernani: Bordering Astigarraga, we find another historic town, Hernani, an urban center in which the good atmosphere, the historic center, the cider houses, Chillida-Leku and Galarreta again offer a wide range of high quality tourism.

As you can appreciate, Astigarraga is not only an excellent place to enjoy a nice festive atmosphere around the Basque cider, but a town where culture and history flow together with cider in the same direction. We recommend you to enjoy it as a whole. We look forward to your comments, doubts and/or suggestions. Ondo pasa!